Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Fully Open Source with Resume Printing All Metal Frame FDM DIY Printers 220x220x250mm

4.5 31 reviews

USD206

Details
FULLY OPEN SOURCE: Creality 3D is working with its wonderful community of users and contributors to improve this open sourced product every day. A design culminating from some of the best and brightest minds in the 3D printing world. NEXT GENERATION TECHNOLOGY: Our upgraded control board offers state of the art, "Resume Print" technology. Should your printer suffer unexpected power outages, it will resume from the last recorded extruder position. Goodbye failed prints! The advanced MK-8 extruder's genius design greatly reduces the risk of clogging and uneven extrusion. High precision ball bearing wheels made from Delrin/POM engineering thermoplastic deliver high stiffness, low friction, and excellent dimensional stability. HIGH-POWERED, SAFE POWER SUPPLY: The Ender 3 comes with a high-quality power supply, with 2 separate fuses to protect your printer from unexpected power surges, that can heat the build surface to 90*C in just 5 minutes! PARTIALLY-ASSEMBLED KIT: The lower base and all wiring completed in our factory. This kit style 3D printer comes with all tools included and is an excellent project for middle school and high school-aged students. The perfect gift to spark a lifelong love for science and engineering, and provide a deeper understanding of machinery and robotics! CREALITY 3D OFFICIAL STORE: We are the ONLY official Creality 3D Amazon store! Because all of our products are shipped to the consumer directly from the manufacturer, we provide a 18 month limited replacement part and lifetime technical assistance. Professional customer service has always been a cornerstone of our company philosophy.
Reviews
User says:

Lets start off with the downsides. If you are looking for something you unbox, press one button and have perfectly printed objects, this isn't it. Most 3d printing takes some trial and error and takes some tweaking to get just right. If you have some patience this can be a fantastic printer.If this is your first printer expect to take anywhere from 1-4 hours putting it together and getting it flat and square. This will most likely involve loosening and tightening bolts that were already put together. The printer should lay flat, and mine didn't out of the box.You'll also need to spend some time getting the slicer settings just right. Go on thingiverse and download some test and calibration stls and work on that.I got a glass bed right off the bat and I'm so glad I did. You can get great prints with the regular print bed, but if the base is warped at all then you'll spend a lot of time dealing with that instead of printing. After a week I have mine to about 90%. It prints great, but I'm having some extrusion problems.Also make sure you switch the voltage to 115 if you're in North America BEFORE turning it on. It looks like it comes from the factory switched to 230 even if it comes with a US style plug. I didn't have an issue, but I've heard people who missed this step and ruined their machine.

User says:

I love this printer! I have a CR-10s and wanted to add another printer as I'll be selling parts and need to increase my print capacity. Overall, I'm more impressed with this little powerhouse than I am with my CR-10s though they use much of the same components and are built using very similar hardware. I'll outline the similarities and differences below. I print PLA and PLA+ from Hatchbox and eSun (200c and 210c respectively) but otherwise my Cura settings are the same for both (tweaked default Cura profiles). While it's nice to have the extra print volume, I prefer the Ender 3 and for the price I will probably be buying several more!Similarities include: frame parts and hardware (sizing differs), hot end, bowden tube, X and Y axis motor and drive belt.Differences:Smaller print volume (Ender 220x220x250; CR10 300x300x400)All-in-one design (doesn't have a 'ball-and-chain' control box like the CR-10 does)Single Z axis motor and rod (CR-10 has a dual Z motor/rod)Coated print bed (CR-10 comes with a glass bed)Large, easy to adjust bed leveling knobs (CR-10 has annoying small bed leveling knobs)Filament spool mount at the top of the frame (CR-10 mounted on control box)No color inserts, straight black frame*UPDATE: My hot end seems to have died after printing great for a couple days. I will be returning and re-ordering because I loved this little printer so much while it was working. Unfortunately, the hot end is permanently wired into the control box so a part swap wouldn't be easy. Re-ordering a new printer is the way to go on this one. It started as under-extrusion halfway through a print. Then I noticed the extruder gear would push filament and then snap back like there was resistance somewhere along the line. I ruled out the extruder gear by running the extruder without filament, it worked as expected. It would only do this when it tried to push filament through the nozzle. The next logical step was to clean it out in case there was a partial clog, unlikely since it was a brand new printer. All cleaned and still no luck. It actually seemed to be getting worse. The more I tried to trouble shoot, the less filament would come out of the hot end. Eventually, the hot end no longer reach a temp capable of melting the filament and I couldn't even hand feed filament through. The screen read 210c but the hot end was barely heated at all. Return processed, printer re-ordered. The assembly was a breeze and I'm sure I can get the new one printing in an hour or so now that I've gone through the assembly once already. I'll edit with another update soon...UPDATE 2: The new printer has been running like a gem for a few weeks now. I LOVE this little thing. I won't post a long-winded update. I'll just say that returning and re-ordering through Amazon was a breeze as always and in my opinion makes it work the extra money over some other lower-priced options outside of Amazon. That's all folks! Now I need to get back to printing!

User says:

I've wanted a 3D printer since they had their first surge on the consumer side years ago, but never had the disposable income to pick one up. I finally decided to pull the trigger on it and am very happy with what I got.(Picture descriptions in Part 3- Use)## Why Ender 3:Before purchasing I watched a bunch of videos from various people and even though they consistently said "I like X printer over the Ender 3" most of them would also qualify their opinion with "I've owned 2-3 Ender 3's". Frankly, if you've bought a product that cost a Couple Hundred Bucks *MULTIPLE* times, then I can only take that as an endorsement.I also looked at many samples from Ender 3 that made me confident that the quality would be acceptable.Furthermore, it's pretty clear that Ender 3 is easily mod-able and is well supported within the community, so it seemed like the easiest machine to troublehshoot/fix/improve if I needed to (and I assumed I would need to)## Assembly:I have some degree of mechanical intuition (nothing I would boast about, but I can get around alright), so even though the instructions only had pictures, I was able to get through about 80% of the assembly easily.The X gantry (the crossbeam assembly with the hotend, in case I'm using the wrong part name since, again, no text in the assembly instructions) was a bit ambiguous based on the pictures so I had to pull up a video tutorial to assemble that.The wiring instructions were also a jumbled mess that I had to stare at for about 10 minutes before finally realizing what went wear (even then I initially plugged the "x" stepper cable into the "z" stepper and only realized my mistake when I couldn't find a place to plug the x limit switch's cable).## Use (with pictures)I spent about 15 leveling the bed using the ubiquitous "Paper Method" that I had seen on several Youtube videos (put a paper between the nozzle and the bed and then adjust until the paper has decent pressure but can still be moved).Picture 1 is the Bed Leveling test print I used at that point, which told me I needed to spend another 20 minutes leveling the bed again.After that I started to print the Test Dog Creality provides. While it was printing, I found out via Google that a) it was going to take longer than I wanted to wait, and b) the filament Creality provides isn't even enough to print the Dog (which seems really shortsighted to me, since most beginner users like myself would assume that you would be able to print at least one of the test pieces with the provided filament).During those two initial prints I had heard this "Pacman" type noise (similar in tone to when you pick up the power dot). Since it sounded like your typical piezo/computer board speakers, I found a cover for the one on the Ender 3's PCB and printed it out.As you can see (top of Picture 2) it came out pretty badly warped. It was late so I continued printing to use up the rest of the filament, but the following morning I did some research and found it was probably because my X Belt was a hair loose; felt tight to me, but I gave it a good tug to make it as tight as I was willing (I didn't want to break anything after all) and I haven't had any problems sinceI had also already downloaded a whole list of interesting things to print so I picked out the Wire clips to use up the rest of the filament (Picture 2- bottom). I didn't notice the warping as much on those ones, but the walls clearly had gaps in them. I wasn't able to find an explanation for that one on the internet, but haven't had that problem since I tightened the X Belt, so I assume that's all it was.The following day after work I pulled out the last of the starter filament and put on the roll I had bought with the Printer and printed my first Benchy (Pictures 3 and 4). While there are some clear defects in it I'm actually extremely happy that it turned out as well as it did (I'm a bit of a pessimist).Based on the Benchy, I re-leveled the bed again and have since been printing upgrades to my Ender 3 which have all been turning out extremely nice: I had 1 burr on a 1 screw hole and some very, very light stringing on one of the 10 pieces I've printed so far.## Final Note of SignificanceDon't under estimate how long it takes to make a 3D print. Going into this I was of the opinion of "Well, **I'm** not doing any of the work, so it doesn't matter how long it takes", but there are two hang ups that I didn't really factor in.First, when you're excited to have something Printed you're inevitably more impatient to have it done. I'm a pretty patient person, but even for me I end up sitting at my desk glancing every 15 minutes to see how much longer it's going to be before I move onto the next piece.Second, smaller pieces may take significantly longer, depending on their shape and quantity. As an example, I'm currently printing the recommended Cable Chains for the Ender 3. After this review is done I'll take the mounting clips off the bed and then print the *Bottoms* of the Chain Links. Just looking at the Chain Links, they seem like they should be pretty small and that they should get done relatively fast.THEY WILL TAKE 11 STRAIGHT HOURS!There are 3 primary reasons for this: I need 25 of them; they have long, vertical extrusions; and they are thin. Because those extrusions are vertical, they get sliced into many layers instead of just a couple (if they were horizontally oriented). Because they are thin, the printer can't take a shortcut by just using an infill mesh on the inside. Finally, because it takes extra long because of those other two points, the quantity because a serious factor as well.And that's just the *Bottom* of the clips: I'll have to print the Top of them after that...## Bottom LineDespite that last point, I still love this printer and look forward to continuing to use it for a long time in the future.

User says:

I'm writing this review after a long first day of printing. I'm pretty happy with it, honestly. This is great value. After having built a larger but remarkably similar printer from scratch, I'm also not convinced they're losing money on it. So at least this isn't a case of Chinese dumping. It's simply a good product at a fair price, for once.My first two prints came out looking fantastic. The provided white PLA wasn't enough to complete the dog model, but my somewhat old and probably wet yellow PETG printed just fine as well. Adhesion was quite good on the provided print surface.Obviously, your results may vary. I don't know how good their quality assurance is, but most Chinese manufacturers seem to struggle with it. It could be that I got one of the good ones. The rails aren't bent, the belts are intact, the steppers all work just fine.The electronics are noisy, though. Given the price, this isn't surprising, but it is something most people will probably want to upgrade. Going with something with TMC2208 or better stepper drivers will almost certainly solve the problem.Overall, I'd say it's a good printer for beginners, but not if you're a buffoon or just not mechanically inclined. Learn how to tune this in, and it'll serve you very well. Ultimately, I gave this four stars instead of 5 because of the noise issue and because the manual doesn't mention the single most important detail for making this printer really shine: adjusting the delrin wheels.Since the manual doesn't mention it at all, I'll give a quick explanation here: the delrin wheels that form the linear bearings for this printer need to be properly tensioned. Do _not_ expect the factory setup to be anywhere near correct. Even if they got it perfect, the shipping process can knock them out of alignment again. The printer comes with little wrenches just for this purpose, so use them!On each set of wheels on the X and Z axes, there is one wheel that is mounted on an eccentric spacer. You can identify it because it has a hex shaft instead of a round one. The larger wrench in the kit should fit this hex. If you turn it, the wheel is pushed slightly inward or outward because it's mounted a little off-center from the bolt hole. This is how you adjust the wheel spacing to make the bearing tighter or looser. You should make it tight enough that you can't feel any play when you try to twist the bearing set, but not so tight that it's difficult to make it roll along the rail. You shouldn't be able to turn the wheels against the rail without the whole thing moving along the rail too.If you still have trouble, take your printer apart again and make sure the ends of the rails weren't damaged in shipping, causing them to not mate up squarely. Since the rails are aluminum, it's relatively easy for the sharp corners to be deformed from minor bumps. If the corners are deformed from impact damage, you should file/sand the deformity off so that the face of the end of the rail can mate flatly against the side of the rails you're bolting them to.If your rails are bent, you'll have to take that up with Creality. There's a warranty for a reason, and that definitely counts. If you aren't sure if your rails are bent, take two of them and place them together lengthwise. Rotate one of them 90 degrees a few times, checking if you can see light coming through between them. If you can, at least one of them is bent. Get a replacement. You spent money on the damn thing, make sure you get what you pay for!

User says:

Shopped printers for 9 months prior to making a purchase. Everything pointed to the Creality Ender 3. But the question I had was, how do I get the most recent version? My purchase through the Creality 3D Direct's Amazon store delivered the most current printer with 24VDC power supply, Silicone hot end Sock, Flexible removable bed, thermal runaway enabled, and Bowden clips. During assembly I was careful to check the roller tightness (Y axis bed was way too tight) and printer squareness (had to do minor cleanup one of the 2020 uprights). QA'd every electrical connection with no issues. First prints included the provided dog followed with the prints pictured. Cura 3.6 settings are perfect match for the Ender-3. The truth is ZERO cleanup was done on the prints pictured. I mean ZERO... The only adjustment made was to increase the hot end temp from the Ender control panel (TUNE) to the recommended temp (200C) by the filament manufacture (HatchBox). My plans for upgrades are ZERO... Creality 3D Direct from Amazon is a little more expensive but at least your getting the insurances of the most recent revision, support, and Amazon's return policy for an exchange if needed. Buying direct from China saves money, but local US support is worth the extra expense. Shopping AMAZON can get confusing, here's the store link: https://www.amazon.com/s?me=A26BI19QRFB6PB&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DERJim HKingston, WA. USA

User says:

So I got into 3d printing six months ago with the Elegoo mars. Great printer for collectibles not so much for usable parts and bigger items. So went for the Ender 3 here. Great printer thus far.Had 2 problems with it so far,1. The extruder screw came loose so it stoped feeding filament.... Easy fix2. Power loss feature did not work. Lightning storm stop print, asked me to continue print but never did.Other than that printer was great.I'm using the recommended filament overture black stuff works great. Did 25 prints so far very nice and strong. I tried 3D Solutech in white didn't work well at all. It came very well package. Wasn't bad to put together a lot like IKEA furniture. Comes with all the tools you need. I think it's a great printer just be ready to tinker. Lot of fun once you learn how to use it.

User says:

my 1st 3d printer and wow it works well for me! I use to have a home built cnc router mill and could cut 3/4 oak in one pass. The bed was 9 inches wide and 4 ft long. So, i have experience in this kind of machine operation. The Ender3 was a joy to assemble. reminded me of my 1st erector set. It was that easy to assemble. All screws were labeled for sizes and very clear detailed color instructions. It would be hard to assemble it together wrong. After assembly, I then leveled the bed and the bed is very flat! I downloaded a g code leveling print test leveling check file and ran the Ender 3 with that file. Look at my square prints for the test. It made many passes to build the lines up. Very Accurate lines! My first print project came out perfect! I make tools with this new printer.

User says:

First off: You will have to build this yourself when it arrives. There is a twelve step one sheet that shows you how to build it and it is the worst. Instead, use a video on youtube on how to construct it, you'll thank yourself later.Now onto the printer: This thing is excellent. You can create some amazing things with it and the print quality is very nice! In the two weeks I've owned it, I've made 5 things, none of them had adhesion issues or any misprint.Also, it isnt as loud as some people make it out to be. It's about as loud as an inkjet printer, but it runs for hours at a time (sometimes days.)

User says:

I own 3 of these printers and love them to death. The print quality is amazing if you have the patients to level the bed.this printer out of the box is OK.; once you start modding it and and upgrade:cooler fancpu fanPSU fanfilment fanupgrade to metal fedderstiffer bed springsdo the petsfang ModGlass bed with masking tape if you want a matte finish and ez to remove partsThen this printer is amazing.Filament brand is also a huge importance when printing. I used over 7 brands and had the best results with 3d Fuel and Hatchboxonly con i have for it is the printer is not the best out of the box and its really hard to get it right but give it a few hours and you'll fall in love quickly.

User says:

Was really impressed by this product's packaging. Also had an excellent assembly manual. The rest of the docs were on the flash drive as well as all the software to get a first print started in under 2 hours for me.Some have complained about leveling but it is actually really simple although the full details are not in the docs. The trick is to slide the bed all the way forward. Grab the base that is attached to the rails. If it has any play at all tighten the two eccentric nuts on the right hand side. If you look on the left you won't see them. as these are rotated they make more contact with the rail. Once that is done i took my springs of the bed and spung them a little to make them apply a little more pressure to the bed. Now follow the manufacturer four corner procedure!

User says:

Love this so much I have no time to do Christmas this year :) except for the decorations I print ofcourse! I am totally new at 3d printing. Setting it up took awhile because I took my time and followed online tips on how to tighten stuff etc. But I have had no problem when printing because of that, so get a cup of coffee and put on some music, set aside most of the day and have fun putting it together. Another tip: print out fan cover first of all as upgrade (you find several at thingiverse).

User says:

This is my first 3D printer and while the instructions weren’t very clear, I was able to look up YouTube videos to figure it out. Once I got it set up, I printed the dog as a test. The print game out great, but the filament that comes with it is definitely not enough for any of the tests.After buying a spool, I printed the pig as well and that came out fantastic!Leveling the bed isn’t too hard. If anything, the instructions are my main complaint. The machine works fantastic but for beginners, those simplified “LEGO” step by step pictures aren’t going to be enough. I highly recommend looking up an assembly video when putting this together.

User says:

It’s great come earlier then thought assembly was easy. I was printing within a day never had any experience with any part of 3D printing before. Easy to learn all aspects of 3D printing and components of it doing upgrades as we speak. The first test print came out smooth and nice and I didn’t even realize I set up wrong. Very happy buying couple friends the same one shortly.

User says:

[[VIDEOID:ca26411094bf4edd17ef9e8fb289302a]] This is my second Ender 3 I've bought in 2 years. All I can say is that this printer is well worth the money!Pro's:- Easy to assemble (instructions are well laid out and understandable)- Easy to use (UI - user interface is simple and responsive)- Durable (I've been using an ender 3 non-stop for a year and it's never failed me/except for a normal nozzle replacement)- Large online support community (there are lots of YouTube videos and websites that can help you troubleshoot)- Great print quality (I've seen super expensive printers struggling to produce the same quality prints)Cons:- The original bed plate struggles to adhere to the prints after a while. (this can easily be fixed by sticking painters tape on or buying a glass plate)Would definitely recommend this printer to anyone.

User says:

This was my first 3D printer and it has been a challenge. The first few prints did alright but after about half a dozen prints, I started having issues. It took about 3 months for me to diagnose all the issues, which were: the stock bowden tube, the nozzle, the couplings, and the heat block all needed replaced on mine because the ones that came with it would cause air gaps and layer shifting in my prints. The prints that have come out before the issues started and after I replaced the parts have been great quality, but lots more work than expected. The stock software is great for beginners to learn on though, but if you want to print anything bigger than the print surface, you’ll need to download another software that’s capable of cutting your files because the stock one has no capability.

User says:

My first printer and I had it together in an hour with a good YouTube video. Printing the test dog now and its coming out better than expected. With some more research and tweaking I can see this thing being even more awsome than it is now. Looking forward to print some fpv drone bling in TPU soon as the tpu gets here! If I can do it you can do it! Enjoy.

User says:

So as everyone has stated so far. This is by far the best printer for the money. One thing to note This was one of the updated Ender 3 with the removal print bed (Super awesome!) however, like most My bed was Warped so I was unable to level my bed. I ended up having to order a glass print bed (highly recommend this) and have it 1 day shipped So I could actually use the printer and enjoy it.

User says:

took an hour to get setup and start printing.

User says:

Easy to build and use harder part is finding a good slicer for the pc

User says:

This is my first 3D printer and it is an amazing machine. I purchased for making scale rc crawler part and works great for what I wanted it for. Only thing that is bad is their slicer is not available for Mac platforms.

User says:

[[VIDEOID:8046f7d437aab67887286ecaaeb041e5]] Assembly was fairly easy, all tools are provided. A great beginner printer. I'm learning so much about 3d printing.

User says:

This is my first printer and i am super exited that it is a great starter machine. There are videos and help out there to help youfine tune this machine if you want it but its awesome right out of the box.( you do need to assemble this machine)

User says:

Awesome printer!!No regrets so far.Only thing that I didn't realize was set up time,I'm pretty good with stuff like this and it still took 2 hours!

User says:

[[VIDEOID:75caf94c7b1cb7943723a42c96b13270]] I heard alot of good things of this printer. I just finished the assembly took me 3 hours but is complete. Now i will test it hope it does what i been hearing.

User says:

Original review date 8/8/2018.I bought mine from another website.Prints coming out great but there's a lot of tinkering to do.The main problem with this printer is bed leveling. You'll need to level it after every print to get successful prints. Almost every issue you would have will be bed leveling related.I changed all of my bed springs in hopes it will make it more stable but no improvement.Another issue I had was under extruding which I solved by loosening the pivot screw on the extruder clamp. When it's tight the clamp doesn't sit right.I highly recommend getting a 9¼x9¼x⅛ piece of glass and clip it to the top of your bed. I also coat mine with a thin layer of Aquanet hair spray (spray in the center and spread it around with my fingers).I printed PLA (LabelPros, Stronghero3d and Solutech 200/60), TPU (Amolen 220/60) and PETG (AmazonBasics 245/70) with no issues.I am experiencing a very loud high pitched sound (coil whine) that seems to come from the transformer inside the PSU which I'm still trying to solve.Update 8/13/18:So that high pitched sound was unbearable after awhile. I opened the PSU and applied hot glue around the base and the two grooves on top of the transformer hoping to eliminate any vibarations. The printer has been printing quietly for the past 3 hours so I think I managed to fix it.I will add pictures later on showing where I applied the glue in case anyone else is experiencing this noise.Update 10/19/18:The hot glue around the transformer really helped, only once in awhile I hear that ungodly sound.I bought a new all metal (red one) extruder from eBay and changed the bowden tube with a new one. No more under extruding. The bowden tube specifically was pretty bad with an off-center hole.I tried using purple glue stick and it does work well but it's harder to clean and prints stick a little too well and I was having a hard time removing them. I use it only for smaller prints now.So far testing with several filaments (TempTower and speed test model I created) from different brands I achieved best quality printing with these settings:200-220/60°c, 6mm retraction at 60mm/s with PLA. Great overhang and minimal stringing. It prints great at 100mm/s as well, but 60-75mm/s is good enough for me.210-215°/70°, 2mm retraction at 40mm/s, with TPU has the best overhang but stringing is bad at every temperature.Amazonbasics PETG prints great at 220/70°c but it will string in any temperature.Try to stay at lower end of the nozzle temp if possible.Higher nozzle temperatures (220-240) actually produced less stringing with all of my PLA filaments but overhang was lacking. Also the higher the temperature, the more glossy looking the print will get.

User says:

Im 50 years old and have limited computer knowledge so im in over my head with new tech things. I went online and found a youtube video with a young fellow with beard and glasses who assembled his ender 3 on video. I followed him which helped me assemble the printer. I don't know how anyone could follow paper directions so following a video was crucial to me. A couple times his hand or arm blocked the video on a part he was putting together which was a little frustrating. The video claimed there were several parts that needed adjusting but I noticed everything was pretty close to exact specs to assemble out of box. The total time to assemble was closer to the 3 hour range but I was taking my time. A critical item is getting bed level. For some reason many assembly videos don’t even mention it. In a nutshell, lower nozzle as far down as it will go. Get a business card and for each corner of the bed, adjust height of bed so that nozzle is touching card but smoothly moves on it. I did this once and haven’t had to adjust it since.After assembly, here is a list of things that are critical for inexperienced computer and 3d users.1) Took me forever to find the slot for the sd card but its in front. Moving the sd card in and out while it was on worked ok. Sometimes I needed to shut printer off and on to recognize it and other times not.2) There are 3 things you need to work with when printing. The nozzle temp, the bed temp and the fan speed. Youll have to adjust all three the better you get at it3) Expect many fails out of the gate. The biggest problems arise from the bed.4) Two filaments to work with are PLA and ABS. PLA is more user friendly. ABS forces you to adjust the temperatures and the fans. It requires more watching and more fails after initial print start which PLA doesnt5) You cant adjust anything until you first tell it to preheat, then you can adjust temperarues. What i initially didnt realize was Preheating starts heating the nozzle but not the bed. I probably had a dozen fails not realizing bed never heated up.6) I think the best temp to start PLA for most was 200c for nozzle and 70c for bed. Initially i couldnt get bed temp over 60c and later i could. Dont know what changed.7) The bed NEEDS to be sticky. The bed NEEDS to be sticky. The bed NEEDS to be sticky!!! If theres one thing i learned after many fails is you NEED a sticky bed. I watched so many youtube videos with guys keeping their bed immaculately clean. I tried the tape method talked about online. I tried the gluestick method. They dont work. Buy aresol hair spray. And coat the bed in a pool of hairspray. The first couple layers need to be sticky.8) i saw some comments online blasting guys who went in and played with printer after it started. Truth is, youre probably going to need to play with the printer for a while after it starts. Such as, when you initially start the nozzle begins spewing out plastic, before it gets a chance to lay down first layer, youll have a half inch of hard plastic coming out that will cause problems if you dont get it off nozzle or cut it off the bed when the nozzle moves away. You may have to use the cutter supplied to cut things off the bed from the plastic being laid down incorrectly. Reason is the initial lay down may have string moving where it shouldnt or string balling up. Sometimes balling up filament may get on the nozzle and cause problems as it comes out so ive burned my fingers a few times trying to make a quick wipe on the nozzle before it starts its first layer. Use the spatula provided early and often, press down often on the early filament layers to make sure its laying down flat out of the gate.9) You should probably not go too cheap on the filament. i was 12 hours in on a 24 hour print and when i came home from work, i saw that the filament broke away from hose and printer didnt realize it. The filament broke off because the filament must have been stored in a hot warehouse and the filament was stuck together in the spool. The filament chose to break rather than unstick itself. i loosened up the filament on the spool as best i could and restarted and noticed that the winding was zigzagged when it was made from manufacturer causing filament also to get stuck on spool.10) So far ive only used 'thingiverse' to download projects. A youtube video, turns out, made it harder than it was. You may have to do it hard way but i dont know why because i have old computer and i didnt do half of what it said. They talked about unzipping files and such. Basically i picked an item i wanted. Then clicked on the download file. i then clicked on the option to see my downloads. Even though it was in my downloads it hadnt appeared in my download file on my hard drive. i double clicked on the file in my viewable downloads and then it appeared on my hard drive. Now clicking on it, my computer said non readable. its ok. i close the warning. I downloaded a free 3d printing software called CURA.When i downloaded cura, it told me i could download a newer version but when i tried to do that my computer said my software wasnt good enough for newer version so everytime i load cura i have to click "no" to newer version. I then open cura window and also my hard drive window. So from my downloads file on my hard drive, i click on file i want and then slide it over into the 3d box in cura. In a few seconds the item appears in there.When i downloaded cura it asked for the printer i had and ender 3 wasnt in their database, but i did enter the dimensions in manually. For some reason after, whenever i print, it seems to only use the front quarter of my bed.11) When using cura, theres a box within the 3d box which allows you to grow or shrink your item. Im finding i need to grow the dimensions. They show the size in x, y and z. the z is the height so by changing the height only, the other two dimensions automatically change. In CURA as you change the dimensions, it will give you the time it will take to print and it is pretty close to the actual time it says. Make sure you have micro sd card in the flash drive and in your computer so finally theres a picture of an sd card in the 3d box in cura and when you click on that, it will download onto your flashdrive. You then take out the micro sd card and put it in your ender 3 and you can choose that to print.12) Finally, until you become an expert at printing, it is best to print items with fewer small and thin areas. Meaning busts of creatures or simple shapes work best. I had problems with arms and ears of smaller items. Probably the larger you make, the less a problem it is but then the print times increase. Expect 2-4 hour print times for small items and 12 hours plus for items 6 inches tall or higher.updateI was having a problem with all prints with hands or arms sticking out. I was resorting to only making busts of things. I stumbled on a review that said in Cura to switch to "everything" in the 'support' box option. My next print was claptrap from borderlands game. What came out was a print entirely encased in a box. I thought I was going to have a mess on my hands trying to pull the supports off and leave the tiny arms on without breaking them off. I initially tried cutting off the supports with the cutter supplied but that was taking awhile. I decided to take needle nose pliers and began pulling everything off that was support and leaving the robot behind. It was actually satisfying pulling the supports off and the creature left behind. It worked perfect.Another update i noticed i was getting more fails in my prints in odd places. A hand messed up or a foot messed up and then filament just sporadicly was coming out. I bought a new nozzle that ejects filament and it works fine again. You can get 8 nozzles for $9. They are so cheap you may want to change nozzle every several prints. I also noticed when i was taking off nozzle that the white filament hose was getting hard inside the heating area. That may be something to change soon too. Im not someone that wants to do lots of tearing apart with electronics partly bec i dont know what im doing and the other part is i dont want to mess it up. But this stuff has been easy to change especially with youtube showing stuff.

User says:

I have been 3D printing for a few years now, I started with a home built delta and have had a few printers since. Each got a little better, but this one is the best so far. I added a glass build plate which pays for itself quickly and makes removal a snap. Just let the build plate cool and the part lifts right off, no scraping and prying. Because removal is effortless, the bed zero holds print after print. I just use the Ender 3 settings in Cura with a modification of the bed temperature to 70 degrees. The pictured print was printed vertically. It took two and a half days on the finest setting. I added some cable management and shortened the bowden tube a little so it doesn't hit the cross brace when printing a tall piece like shown which is seven and a half inches tall.

User says:

Assembly and setup went super quick (

User says:

Had this printer for about six months with very few issues. Prints great out of the box I would not recommend upgrading anything till you know what you are doing. Maybe print a board fan cover because it is easy to get filament in the fan and some stiffer yellow springs so you have to level less. Only problem with mine was a slightly warped bed but I got a 6 pack of mirrors from Home Depot for $10 and cut one to fit and all is fine now. Also check that the yellow XT60 connector is not heating up some came crimped rather than soldered. Mine was fine and have heard they fixed that problem now but it never hurts to check.

User says:

I am tickled pink with this purchase. I've seen people complain about setup, nah...it was a breeze. It took an hour to assemble. Setup took 30 minutes. I used the paper test to calibrate the head. At worst, the prints are off by 0.25mm, which as a woodworker is 4x better than I'm used too lol. I use sketchup make and the cura software they recommend. Thingiverse had some free mods I used to make the printer a little more streamlined...a feed arm, a feed guide, and a fan cover. (There are 1m+ free mods out there for this printer.) Overall, 100% pleased with quality and price of this printer. Exceeded my expectations in every facet.

User says:

A little bit hard to set up Other than Dot is good I love it so

similar items